Essentials
Money in Korea
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Read guide →Korean cuisine (hansik) is built around balance — fermented sides (banchan), a steaming bowl of rice, and a main dish that changes with the season. Meals are served all at once rather than in courses, and sharing dishes at the table is the norm. The depth of flavor comes from slow-fermented pastes like doenjang (soybean) and gochujang (chili), which form the backbone of soups, stews, and marinades across the country.
Eunpyeong-gu sits at the northwestern edge of Seoul, where the city meets the mountains of Bukhansan National Park. The area has a quiet, residential character with a food scene that reflects its local community — traditional Korean home-style cooking, neighbourhood pojangmacha, and teahouses tucked between hiking trail entrances.
I stopped by here after five years. My experience five years ago wasn't great, but a friend told me it's still very popular, so I went with him after a long time... um, as expected, it didn't suit my taste. The reasons are: 1. The fish had almost no fishy flavor. 2. The food was too lightly seasoned. 3. I expected grilled fish head, but they replaced it with squid (well, that's a freebie, after all). Taste is a matter of personal preference, so this is just my opinion, but I think you can take it with a grain of salt. If you ask me if I recommend it, I'd say I'm not sure. Fifty thousand won per person isn't a lot of money these days, but... by my standards, it's a bit questionable. For reference, I've been to many famous middle-class sushi restaurants in Japan and I'm a huge sushi fan.
Authentic sushi in Eungam-dong. I ordered 10 pieces for 23,000 won. This place prioritizes quality over value. The secret to the 10 pieces: The 9 pieces are delicious and varied. However, the sashimi and rice sizes are the same, meaning the portions are a bit small. The last piece is a sushi roll the size of 3-4 pieces of sushi. I wouldn't come back without this, lol. And they serve mini udon noodles as a side. A high-quality sushi restaurant with a Japanese feel. Recommended for those who value quality over value.
